Illustration: Chardonnay grapes under the chamber's light

Illustrations: the crop under the chamber’s light, and how it arrives (packaging render).

Packaging render

Chardonnay 2008

Le Mesnil-sur-Oger · Côte des Blancs, Champagne · France

The cool, late year Champagne still measures itself against.

A critics' year: its standing is published consensus.

$180per 6 kg crate · $240 after harvest

0% reserved · 120 of 120 leftPlants at 70% · closes 7 December 2026

Nothing is owed unless this lot reaches 70% reserved by 7 December 2026. If it doesn't, your reservation is released.

2008 was grey and cool through summer, then turned clear and dry for the harvest. The grapes came in with acidity most growers had never seen alongside full ripeness, and the wines are widely held to be among the finest Champagne vintages of the century.

178
days replayed

1 Apr – 25 Sept

15.3°
mean temperature

-2° to 31°

1002
degree-days of heat

warmth accumulated

449 mm
rain

81 mm in the final weeks

10.4 h
sun a day

estimated from the reanalysis

7.6°
day–night swing

in the final weeks

38
mol/m² of light a day

calculated

What this weather does to the fruit.

Five readings from the recorded season, each against the band the crop does best in (painted green on the dial). The meanings are what growers and agronomists expect of weather like this, not a tasting note.

Heat over the season · in balance

Enough heat to ripen fully without tipping into heaviness.

Day–night swing while ripening · ideal

Cool nights after warm days keep acidity and aroma while sugar builds — the signature of a classic year.

Rain in the last 40 days · wet

Late rain swells fruit with water and tends to dilute flavour; it also brings rot pressure.

Sunlight · brilliant

Light builds colour, skin ripeness and sugar.

Days above 32° · none

No heat stress: the plant never shut down to protect itself.

The season, as it happened.

1 April 2008 to 25 September 2008, recorded daily at 48.95°, 4.02° (ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo historical archive). Choose a chapter to mark it on the paper.

Point at the paper to read any day. Arrow keys step a day.

Air temperature, day high to night low · °C-6–34
Rain, given as water at the roots · mm0–28
Daily light · mol/m² · calculated0–71
Peak UV · index · calculated0–9
Humidity · %54–96
Soil temperature, top 7 cm · °C3–26
Soil water · m³/m³0.17–0.45
AprMayJunJulAugSept

Burgundy ink: the recorded day. Blue: rain. The dashed line is where the chamber is today. Light and UV are calculated from the recorded sunshine.

The ground, and what stands in for it.

In Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
A thin skin of topsoil over Campanian belemnite chalk that holds water like a sponge and gives it back slowly.
In the chamber
Calcium-led and lean on nitrogen, with a slow, steady drip that never lets the root zone dry or flood.
The ledger: every day and the chamber’s settings for it (178 days)
DayDateHigh °CLow °CRH %Rain mmSun hLight hDLIPPFDUVSoil °CSoil water→ Water L/m²→ Mist min
11 Apr11.90.2890.01.812.719.24202.96.639%1.2—
22 Apr12.24.9820.03.912.819.04152.97.838%1.5—
33 Apr9.56.5800.24.212.820.24383.17.938%1.7—
44 Apr12.60.7770.011.712.935.47634.37.937%2.2—
55 Apr10.44.1863.87.512.922.64843.37.337%5.18
66 Apr7.91.0834.79.913.037.07924.56.438%6.69
77 Apr7.50.4783.18.813.135.17474.45.239%4.96
88 Apr9.3-2.4710.08.613.136.97814.64.738%2.1—
99 Apr6.73.6865.80.013.211.12332.35.539%6.512
1010 Apr10.22.7820.35.313.223.44923.66.339%1.8—
1111 Apr11.85.6772.08.813.328.15884.07.639%3.94
1212 Apr12.73.1793.311.913.436.37564.77.739%5.57
1313 Apr11.06.1895.95.413.425.25213.88.240%7.412
1414 Apr10.15.48816.96.813.527.65684.18.143%18.434
1515 Apr9.61.1864.010.113.533.16804.67.041%5.88
1616 Apr10.5-2.1700.013.313.650.410305.96.540%2.9—
1717 Apr11.20.0650.011.813.749.310025.96.638%2.9—
1818 Apr15.36.0785.210.013.736.77435.09.339%7.810
1919 Apr14.18.38711.16.313.821.24273.69.842%12.522
2020 Apr15.76.8750.48.313.831.26274.69.940%2.8—
2121 Apr13.89.0845.01.513.921.24253.710.741%6.610
2222 Apr16.38.4861.211.213.930.96164.611.441%3.32
2323 Apr15.57.8886.712.914.031.06154.611.541%8.713
2424 Apr16.03.9750.613.014.144.58805.811.140%3.8—
2525 Apr14.86.8750.012.914.135.36955.111.438%2.5—
2626 Apr18.14.3720.013.514.253.610506.611.737%3.7—
2727 Apr21.98.4680.012.614.248.09376.213.636%3.9—
2828 Apr15.29.5866.33.914.322.64394.012.937%813
2929 Apr13.26.0845.39.014.328.85584.610.539%7.111
3030 Apr12.88.4785.99.014.428.45494.610.340%812
311 May13.86.2805.39.614.439.57595.610.240%7.811
322 May15.64.6800.013.214.541.07855.811.039%2.7—
333 May20.36.1730.014.114.555.110536.912.837%4—
344 May20.69.4660.014.014.656.210707.014.336%4.4—
355 May19.29.4600.014.314.658.010997.214.134%4.7—
366 May21.29.7670.014.414.757.910957.214.733%4.6—
377 May21.710.3650.014.514.757.810907.315.632%4.8—
388 May23.010.6630.014.614.855.810477.116.130%4.8—
399 May23.811.1630.013.914.853.910087.016.929%4.6—
4010 May23.311.5630.014.014.955.610367.216.728%4.9—
4111 May21.811.9570.014.814.959.811127.516.627%5.2—
4212 May22.611.3610.014.815.057.610677.416.826%4.8—
4313 May23.410.0600.014.815.054.09977.116.825%4.7—
4414 May23.110.8690.813.515.156.410387.317.424%5.4—
4515 May18.612.28811.77.315.130.05525.016.229%13.923
4616 May20.410.28410.211.515.249.08976.816.435%13.820
4717 May18.012.08711.712.615.237.66875.815.940%14.323
4818 May16.68.1897.612.715.238.16945.914.340%10.215
4919 May15.410.0680.010.115.334.86335.613.438%3—
5020 May17.17.8640.014.915.344.07976.413.136%3.6—
5121 May16.89.3650.010.615.436.46585.713.634%3.1—
5222 May18.110.7680.014.215.441.97556.314.533%3.3—
5323 May19.17.9761.612.515.447.08466.714.833%5.23
5424 May21.712.47511.99.615.540.47256.216.135%15.424
5525 May20.912.7811.911.215.542.67646.416.938%5.34
5626 May22.115.28310.811.815.539.27006.117.740%1422
5727 May22.114.48825.35.215.628.75125.117.441%27.451
5828 May20.616.0720.014.315.646.98356.817.838%3.8—
5929 May20.712.2833.27.715.633.55965.616.639%66
6030 May21.313.9820.010.515.742.97616.517.738%3.5—
6131 May16.813.0907.01.115.716.82983.715.639%8.414
621 Jun22.111.5863.510.915.744.97946.717.240%77
632 Jun21.914.2837.610.015.739.97036.218.041%10.915
643 Jun19.413.8832.711.715.838.46766.117.039%5.65
654 Jun16.613.2840.52.715.815.02633.515.539%2—
665 Jun16.113.0832.62.515.821.03694.215.038%4.55
676 Jun13.311.79220.50.015.85.1891.813.243%21.241
687 Jun15.010.5892.70.015.912.62213.112.942%3.95
698 Jun21.511.4800.013.815.942.57446.515.539%3.3—
709 Jun24.614.4740.015.115.957.710097.818.137%4.9—
7110 Jun24.813.4720.015.115.957.610057.818.936%5—
7211 Jun19.311.8720.011.715.946.98176.917.234%3.8—
7312 Jun16.48.7815.811.515.929.55155.214.236%7.912
7413 Jun15.46.7720.014.615.941.37196.413.137%3—
7514 Jun17.17.3815.014.116.046.88156.913.337%8.210
7615 Jun16.18.7841.79.216.040.37016.313.938%4.63
7716 Jun17.78.8800.815.016.052.49127.414.537%4.5—
7817 Jun20.29.2680.015.116.055.49637.715.635%4.3—
7918 Jun21.09.2710.215.016.047.88317.015.834%4.1—
8019 Jun20.411.2761.411.916.037.16456.015.833%4.53
8120 Jun20.913.5811.411.916.039.56866.317.334%4.63
8221 Jun25.312.0760.015.316.049.98677.218.333%4.2—
8322 Jun26.315.98411.913.516.039.96956.319.435%15.324
8423 Jun20.811.6710.314.516.057.810067.918.637%4.8—
8524 Jun25.913.4788.015.016.054.69507.619.835%12.516
8625 Jun23.117.9800.214.916.050.38757.220.538%4.3—
8726 Jun22.013.1700.014.116.049.98697.219.135%4.1—
8827 Jun19.912.7760.39.415.933.75875.717.533%3.2—
8928 Jun22.514.6770.011.415.936.16295.918.332%3.2—
9029 Jun22.514.6770.010.015.938.56716.119.031%3.3—
9130 Jun22.014.9680.014.515.954.49497.619.430%4.5—
921 Jul26.610.6710.015.415.964.211218.319.529%5.4—
932 Jul26.017.18111.910.815.942.97506.520.931%15.724
943 Jul20.215.38215.67.715.931.25475.418.840%18.231
954 Jul20.210.2710.013.515.853.39357.417.637%4.1—
965 Jul20.913.0774.08.615.827.44815.017.237%6.58
976 Jul19.312.3700.013.415.844.27766.617.136%3.8—
987 Jul19.013.2713.614.215.847.28316.916.635%7.57
998 Jul18.213.4740.911.815.737.96686.016.236%4.2—
1009 Jul20.512.3730.011.615.737.66656.016.734%3.3—
10110 Jul24.815.0690.014.015.751.99187.319.033%4.8—
10211 Jul20.516.2858.96.115.722.23944.418.037%10.918
10312 Jul18.614.0691.015.015.646.88316.817.336%4.92
10413 Jul18.110.2730.014.915.650.38957.116.334%3.7—
10514 Jul19.99.8710.09.415.644.88006.616.333%3.6—
10615 Jul23.810.4690.013.615.556.010017.617.731%4.6—
10716 Jul21.614.0820.36.515.533.55995.518.030%3.1—
10817 Jul21.014.0720.08.515.538.96986.018.029%3.4—
10918 Jul20.614.0680.06.515.429.05215.117.628%2.9—
11019 Jul22.016.8710.412.715.437.56765.918.628%4—
11120 Jul19.210.6690.314.915.448.28726.816.827%4.2—
11221 Jul17.310.4640.09.015.335.66465.715.426%3.3—
11322 Jul21.010.5660.014.615.349.99066.916.525%4—
11423 Jul22.712.0660.013.715.254.09847.317.724%4.6—
11524 Jul25.413.2590.014.715.261.111177.819.123%5.7—
11625 Jul26.015.7640.014.615.250.89307.020.722%4.8—
11726 Jul25.517.1751.612.515.151.49437.021.622%6.13
11827 Jul27.016.5771.113.715.152.89737.122.222%5.72
11928 Jul27.716.0770.014.115.051.69537.022.723%4.7—
12029 Jul25.318.1681.313.515.054.010027.122.623%63
12130 Jul27.117.0690.113.914.942.77936.222.522%4.1—
12231 Jul30.718.3700.013.114.947.58866.623.721%4.8—
1231 Aug24.019.2630.06.714.832.05995.122.120%3.7—
1242 Aug20.116.0710.75.914.820.53843.919.420%3.3—
1253 Aug22.117.2821.35.114.719.53683.819.521%3.53
1264 Aug21.917.1727.411.214.731.15885.019.626%10.615
1275 Aug24.212.9660.012.714.649.09306.519.827%4.2—
1286 Aug28.514.6650.014.114.655.210517.021.824%5.1—
1297 Aug24.517.57811.27.814.531.76065.020.927%14.322
1308 Aug20.215.7806.411.814.530.95924.918.834%9.113
1319 Aug22.614.6700.212.414.442.88245.919.032%4—
13210 Aug23.215.9680.03.014.425.14854.318.929%3.3—
13311 Aug20.814.1740.29.414.336.06975.318.827%3.4—
13412 Aug23.314.7715.710.414.337.77335.418.631%9.711
13513 Aug20.715.2580.013.414.238.57525.418.229%4.6—
13614 Aug19.512.1620.012.714.237.37315.317.327%3.4—
13715 Aug20.610.9640.013.014.143.18495.816.626%3.6—
13816 Aug22.49.4630.012.714.151.310146.417.224%4.3—
13917 Aug21.714.9660.011.914.034.96935.018.723%3.4—
14018 Aug24.515.1690.112.413.927.45474.319.222%3.6—
14119 Aug22.315.5620.011.313.930.56114.619.022%4—
14220 Aug20.615.2640.57.313.828.35694.318.421%3.8—
14321 Aug22.113.6660.010.513.830.46134.518.421%3.1—
14422 Aug18.514.18820.00.913.711.12252.416.928%2140
14523 Aug18.511.8790.910.613.735.97314.916.435%3.7—
14624 Aug18.89.9762.910.113.629.66054.315.532%5.46
14725 Aug20.814.7751.48.613.533.86934.717.333%4.33
14826 Aug21.614.1780.15.013.523.14763.717.931%2.2—
14927 Aug22.314.7790.09.213.432.36694.518.729%2.7—
15028 Aug20.314.6770.02.713.422.44673.618.228%2—
15129 Aug20.416.1780.02.813.321.24423.418.627%2—
15230 Aug26.514.4740.012.913.246.09655.419.826%4.1—
15331 Aug26.315.1783.810.113.235.17404.520.426%7.18
1541 Sept20.715.6750.16.413.120.74383.318.528%2.3—
1552 Sept22.314.3711.15.013.123.85063.517.927%4.12
1563 Sept17.011.7877.00.713.09.11952.014.932%7.914
1574 Sept17.811.0750.46.612.925.95573.714.733%2.8—
1585 Sept20.813.3857.50.212.911.22422.215.933%8.915
1596 Sept20.516.1650.012.212.833.57274.217.434%3.9—
1607 Sept18.614.3732.28.012.821.84763.216.232%4.74
1618 Sept19.211.4750.012.412.734.47524.215.831%2.7—
1629 Sept26.010.1750.39.212.634.77644.116.529%3.5—
16310 Sept24.015.8800.110.312.630.36703.818.828%2.8—
16411 Sept26.315.98514.010.312.536.78144.220.130%17.128
16512 Sept17.912.2815.38.012.419.64382.917.039%711
16613 Sept15.410.08911.12.112.413.73082.314.137%12.222
16714 Sept16.38.9740.012.112.340.59134.314.637%2.8—
16815 Sept14.27.4700.07.312.326.05893.313.035%2.1—
16916 Sept15.36.2710.09.112.231.07063.612.533%2.3—
17017 Sept14.27.6680.09.212.132.27373.612.132%2.5—
17118 Sept15.36.9720.89.412.129.76843.412.031%3—
17219 Sept16.58.6740.011.012.027.96463.312.931%2.2—
17320 Sept16.67.4660.011.612.037.68733.813.130%3—
17421 Sept16.17.1650.011.011.934.58073.612.529%2.9—
17522 Sept16.57.6730.010.911.832.97733.512.828%2.6—
17623 Sept14.67.2790.14.111.817.74192.412.228%1.6—
17724 Sept16.97.6801.79.811.724.95922.913.330%3.63
17825 Sept16.910.6720.110.611.626.06212.914.029%2.5—
Download the chamber recipe (CSV)